TOMATO: Gallery
​
TOMATOES need warm soil and plenty of sunshine. If your garden doesn’t get at least six hours of direct sunlight, consider growing them in pots or containers (choose a size-appropriate container!) and move them to the sunniest spots in your yard. As a side note, cherry tomatoes will still produce under less-than-ideal conditions, but larger-fruited varieties will not.
How much water do tomatoes need?
Far less than most people think—unless they’re in containers, in which case this rule doesn’t apply. The exact amount depends on how deeply you’ve mulched (hint: 2–6 inches). My practice is to water thoroughly when seedlings are first transplanted, then maybe once or twice more during the first month. After that, as a rule, I don’t irrigate again. Why? I firmly believe more water = more flavor dilution + more disease (every pathogen needs moisture to get established).
NEVER—NEVER—EVER overhead-water your tomatoes. Was I clear enough?
What do I fertilize my tomatoes with?
In an ideal world, your soil would be so rich in organic matter and nutrients that you wouldn’t need to fertilize at all. Realistically, though, most of us do. There are tons of commercial tomato fertilizers on the market; some are slightly better than others, but they’re all pretty similar. My two favorite brands (both easy to find at any big-box store) are:
​
-
First choice: Espoma Tomato-tone or Espoma Garden-tone
-
Second choice: pretty much anything from Fox Farm (especially Fox Farm Happy Frog )
​​
I actually prefer their liquid line—it’s more economical and faster-acting. Just follow the manufacturer’s recommended feeding schedule.
One critical addition to any fertilization program: Cal-Mag. Almost every tomato “problem” you’ll ever see can be traced back to calcium deficiency (especially blossom-end rot). Do yourself a huge favor and make Cal-Mag part of your routine. You’ll thank me later.
Let’s finally get spacing right. I’ve seen your gardens—I know you’re cramming them in there. Stop it.
Tomatoes need to be planted at least 3 feet on center, with at least 4 feet between rows. Why? Because neither you nor I are going to prune religiously, the plants are going to explode with growth, and tight spacing = poor airflow = disease paradise.
To stake/cage or not?
Totally up to you. Tomatoes are technically perennial vines and don’t require support. If you do support them, don’t waste money on those flimsy round cages from years past—my plants laugh at them and crush them within weeks. Go bigger and stronger or just let them sprawl.


